Painting the Wood on The Love Shack

The Time Crunch

I need to get some paint on this because I want to do snow effects, and those need to be dry in time. So I’m getting all the wood done tonight, metals tomorrow, and probably snow tomorrow too.

The Weathered Wood Recipe

Following one of my favorite recipes for old wood from Marco Frisone. I’m going to dry brush this since I don’t want to get the airbrush out for just one model.

The colors:

1. Vanilla White (from Scale Artist) with a big makeup brush
2. Plaguebearer Flesh contrast
3. Guilliman Flesh contrast
4. Militarum Green contrast

This gives us a nice weathered wood style for our Love Shack.

The Dry Brush Foundation

This vanilla is a warm white with a little yellow mixed in. On the roof, I did the shading so the lower part would be darker. The back I also left a bit darker, but the sides, focal point on the front door, and very front I hit pretty hard.

Applying Plaguebearer Flesh

Coming straight from the pot. I hit it with a heat gun first to make sure everything was dry—didn’t want the contrast paint to mix with the white dry brush and make a goopy mess.

I’m not too worried about staying off the metal parts. At first it’s going to be super flush, but we’re going to do so much more to it.

Guilliman Flesh

With this one, be more selective. I’m starting on the back so I can see how it’s looking.

The painting contest is for a Winter Wonderland Warmachine event. I’m going for best painted champion and entering best painted objective too. I just don’t have time to go crazy hard on the objective, but I still want it to look good.

I’m coming in where shadows will be first—top and bottom. I’m almost stippling it into the cracks because I’m going so fast. Should really wait for stuff to dry, so I have to be careful not to strip the paint.

The Wet Blending Technique

We’re almost wet blending these two contrast paints together. If you’re not careful, it can get nasty looking fast. We’ve got very high contrast now, which for an objective will be pretty eye-catching.

This is just from two contrast paints and dry brushing! Pretty crazy for a speed paint approach.

Finishing with Militarum Green

This goes in the shadows really. Just walking it down a little on the lower sections, leaving the middle alone.

I’m doing the least amount of green because we don’t want it to actually look green—we just want it to add to the weathered effect.

The Result

Very dirty, worn, and grungy Love Shack. A well-used Love Shack, if you will.

I might need to hit it with dry brush again and fix some coffee stains from going too fast. But for speed painting, trying to get as much done as possible, I think it looks pretty good so far.

Tomorrow’s Plan

For snow, I’m going to use crushed glass—which is a pain because you need gloves, mask, and resin. We’ll figure it out!

Transcript

Okay, guys. I realized uh that I really need to get some paint on this because I want to do some snow effects on it. And in order for those to be dry in time, this has to be painted. So, I’m going to do my best to get all the wood done uh tonight. And then the metals tomorrow and then probably also tomorrow the snow.

So, it’s definitely drying time cuz the snow stuff I want to use is going to take a little bit to dry. So, let’s get into it. So, we’re going to just follow one of my favorite recipes for old wood, and it’s from Marco Forone. We’re I’m going to dry brush this cuz I want to get the airbrush out for just one model. Vanilla white with a big makeup brush.

Vanilla white from Skele Artist. Then we’re going to go play Bear Flesh, Gillian Flesh, and then finish it up with Militarium Green. And this will give us a nice weathered wood style for our love shack. All right. So, here we are after dry brushing.

And this vanilla is a a warm white. There’s a little bit of yellow mixed in. So, this will kind of play up. You can see on the roof I kind of uh did the shading in but this part that’s lower so it would be a little bit darker. And the back I also left a little bit darker but the sides I hit pretty hard.

The focal point on the front of the door I hit pretty hard. The very front right here and on this side I hit hit pretty hard. So now uh we’re going to go into play. All right. I’m coming right from the pot.

I got faithful again hopefully. Okay. So, straight from the pot and we’re just going to hit this. Oh, and I also should mention I hit this I hit this with a heat gun, so I knew everything was dry before I tried to contrast paint everything just cuz I didn’t want the contrast paint to mix in with that white dry brush and just make a goopy mess. And I’m not going to I’m going to try to stay off the metal parts, but I’m not too worried about it.

And at first it’s going to be super flush. But again, we’re going to do so much to it. >> My last couple of days have been. And on the actual on Lina, I’m just been I base coated the other leather. I’m not really sure how I’m going to paint it.

So, I just base coated it and I’ve been thinking through the look. probably going to airbrush her actual back look cuz that’s just going to mostly be black anyway. And I’ve been thinking I’ll probably tomorrow I’m going to have to make a ton of progress on her. Tomorrow for sure is going to have to be a panty day. I’m going to have to I’ll have to get up early.

try to knock out as much work as I can so I can paint throughout the day. And you can kind of already see like it’s already turning into Oh. Oh god, did I just do all that out of frame? Did I really just do that all out of frame? I hope not.

So, uh, but you can see now it’s already like if you wanted an old sunweathered shed, we’re pretty much there. And you I hate dry brush texture and using that big brush like kind of takes it away. And I tried to dry brush up and down so it looked like a wood grain if any texture did come through. So there’s that part, too. But if you airbrush this, uh, you would be I just took it off.

I need to burn it back in. If you airbrush this, it’ be a lot smoother, right? So I’m just getting the excess off cuz I don’t want it to to pull too bad. Be careful if I hit right here. I’m just checking to make sure there’s nothing that’s too crazy heavy.

A little bit better job on the back part. You can see just how much like character we’ve already put in here just from that dry brush. It’s pretty pretty crazy actually. Sorry for the sniffles. I am dealing with a little bit of a cold.

All right, so that’s it for plague bear flesh. Um, we’re going to let this dry just a little bit. We don’t want it. We still want to keep it a little bit wet so we can almost kind of like wet blend this filament flesh that I’m shaking up. He’s been sitting for a while.

So, I just want to make sure. And of course, I don’t have my vortex mixer plugged up right now. All right. So, this we want to be a little bit more selective. And actually, I’m going to start uh on the back so I can just kind of see how we’re looking.

And see on the back, I didn’t do a good job at making sure that paint was dry. So now the white has all just come off the back. That’s okay because this we’ll just like grime all that back up. Make it look like it’s coming off of that. It is no big deal.

And there. So this painting contest, it’s it’s for a winter winter wonderland war machine event. I believe there’s a contest for best painted champion, which obviously I’m going for, and best painting objective, which I’m going to enter, but I just don’t have the time to like go crazy hard on the objective, but I still want to like I want this to look good, right? So, uh, so what I’m doing is I’m just coming in where I know the shadows are going to be first, which is going to be the top and the bottom here. And now I’ll work work this in.

I have to be careful. I’m almost like stippling it and getting it in the cracks because I don’t I’m going so fast and I really should wait probably wait more for stuff to dry in between what I’m doing. So, I just got to be careful that I don’t strip the paint. And you can see what that brown is starting to do. And obviously, it’s a wet it’s a wet mess.

But I think um I’ll definitely have to hit this with a heat gun before I go on to that final step of militarium green cuz if cuz I can see I’m kind of taking off some of that white and the black coming through and it’s actually kind of making a cool effect but it’s creating a lot of contrast but I don’t want it to look like so I don’t want to have so much contrast that it looks unfinished you Yeah. Heat. And again on this side, I’m really just trying to be careful that I don’t have a a koopy mess. There we go. So you can see it like I I want it to look pretty old and busted.

So that’s like we’re getting there. I think it looks looks pretty cool. I need to do the top. So with this top, we’re just going to start from our point of light and then drag this paint down so that the most of the pigment is collecting at the bottom and then around this middle here. And at this point, we’re like we’re pretty much wet blending these two contrast paints together, which if you’re not careful, can get pretty nasty looking pretty fast.

But I think I think we’re good. I’m going to soak some of this up. There we go. Very high contrast on this model now, which I think for an objective, uh, it’s going to definitely like be pretty pretty eyecatching. And this is just off two contrast paints and dry brushing.

Pretty crazy, especially if you’re trying to bang out a bunch of a bunch of objectives. This is a pretty cool way of doing them. And now I’m just going to work this gum and flesh up some now that it’s starting to pull a little bit. And I’m just going to really at this point I’m just taking it off where it pulls and letting it work. I’m going to leave it alone.

I’m not going to put anything else on it for right now. So I’m going to let this dry. And maybe just a little bit more brown right here. And then we’ll finish up by hitting it with that militarium green. And I think we’ll call it a night.

And we’ll do the metals tomorrow and the snow tomorrow. For the snow, I’m going to use crushed glass, which uh is a pain to use cuz you have to wear gloves and a mask and you have to have resin. I don’t know if I have resin. Maybe I’m not using crushed glass, but we’ll we’ll figure it out. All right.

All right, now we’re at the final stretch. Uh, Military Green. Really got to shake this one. And so here, I’m just putting this like in the shadows really. And I’ll just walk it down a little bit here, but definitely down here towards the bottom.

And we’re going to leave that middle. Just working this in. And you can see where I got too where I was too fast and I pulled up my dry brushing like I warned you not to do. So don’t be like me and go a little bit slower. You won’t have that happen to you.

But I think it I think it looks great still. And on this side, we might go a little bit harder with this green just because of how bright this still is. Just rub that in on the roof. Again, we don’t we’re going to put a little bit up at the front, but mostly just down here in the shadows and here. So, definitely doing the the least amount of this green cuz we don’t want it to actually look green.

We just want that to add to it. So, as you can see, very dirty, worn, and grungy. love shack. A wellused Love Shack, if you will. So, yeah.

And we’re we’re definitely not done with this, but we’re done with it for tonight cuz we I want this to dry. And I have a feeling I might need to hit it with a dry brush again and kind of go back over it in a few spots just where too much of the paint came off and to fix some of these like coffee stains from going too fast. But I think for a speed paint job and trying to get as much done as we can pretty quick, I think it looks to look pretty good so far.