Skip to main content
It's another day and that means another Orctober vlog. And today we're going to finish up this rusted little dagger thing.
How to paint a rusted sword

How to paint a rusted sword

/ 6 min read

It's another day and that means another Orctober vlog. And today we're going to finish up this rusted little dagger thing.

Transcript

It’s another day and that means another Orctober vlog. And today we’re going to finish up this rusted little dagger thing. Quick and easy. Uh we’re going to use really six colors, but I forgot to put one in the picture. Burnt skin, permanent orange, violet gray, pale gray, and a white.

So, here we go. This is where we’re at right now. I did a little bit of this trying to build up the dagger, but I’m just going to I’m just going to work some browns back in. And I’m starting with that burnt skin or burnt flesh. Burnt skin.

It’s burnt skin. So, just working it pretty much. I’m pretty much covering all of the blade. I’m leaving that darker blue down towards the bottom. Get a little bit on on the the backside.

And I’m also painting in the handle here because the handle still had some of the actual red on it. And I’ll go back in and put in the wood grain here. But doing the handle on that. And I’m actually I’m going to use this color for the base, too, when I do get to the base. So, just giving us this initial brown to work with cuz we’re going to make sure this thing is super rusty.

There’s not really going to be a lot of bare metal on this cuz this guy, he looks lazy to me. So, I don’t think he’s been doing a lot of chopping. So, there, that’s where we are after the brown. And you can see again, just a little little stippling here and there. I’m not really painting this in full strokes really at any point.

Just building up texture, building up layers, leaving parts of the previous layers still visible. So, got the Altoids tin. Now, I’m coming in with that permanent orange. And I’m mixing it about 50/50 with the burnt scand orange and brown. Now, it is a brownish orange or orangeish brown.

And again, stippling. I’ve got this is my workhorse brush. Uh I think its days are numbered. I’m probably going to have to It’s so short now for me having to cut it down. But just more stippling.

Really just stippling. A lot of it. Uh couple of scratches. Being intentional with the stippling. I’m not just blasting it.

I’m trying to avoid that hard edge where the bevel of the blade starts. But we’re going to reestablish it anyway. So that’s okay. And I’m making sure I’m getting the blade surface because I decided that I I did want all of this to be rusted. I think when I paint some more of these, uh that won’t be the case.

But this one’s definitely just going to be pretty rusted up and nasty. It’s just funnier me that way. Especially because he’s just literally leaning the point into his leg. So stippling every color just a little bit less and less stippling. That’s the secret to a good looking rust.

And also I’m I’m avoiding that hard edge where I already did a little bit of work on it before. So now this is pure orange just by itself. And we’ve, this is kind of the same thing we did on the armor, but I wanted this to be a lot more rusted, have a lot more going on because if you try to do this to the whole armor, like the whole helmet, that’s just a lot. Uh, and I don’t think it would look as good, and they’re going to be treating their swords and weapons differently. Like, they’re going to be out and put away and and not cared for, whereas I think the armor would get thrown around and be on more.

So, here’s a close-up. You can already see like where our rust is pretty pretty well established. I like this. So you could take it, if you wanted to, you could mix in a little bit of white with the orange and and go super bright. But what I’m doing here is with that Tenebrous Grey, reestablishing that hard line where the bevel starts and then just edge highlighting here, just using the side of the brush, side of the belly of the brush to get that black line in where the metal would be and the rust is definitely going to be scraped off.

And it’s hard to get it to where you can see it, too. But I think this is a pretty good angle. So, that’s probably the only only hard thing I’ve done this whole time was reestablishing that line. And now, again, I’m just very gently building this up because I don’t want to I don’t want to go like off the snapper gray into the orange too too much. Just being very careful.

Again, it’s more stippling. Adding in some scratches here towards the point where maybe he stabbed something and it did drive back up into the rust. And there’s a little bit of a pit there in the sculpt. So, just following that. I’m just dry brushing a smaller area than I did with the back right along this edge.

Same thing. It’s the same thing over and over again. Stippling and poking. Same thing, hitting this hard edge. And this is what will make it to the eye look like it’s metal and it’ll tell the eye that there’s shiny metal underneath.

So, that was the violet gray or violet gray, not violet. And now we’re doing pearl gray, which is just a little bit brighter and again less areas. And finally, white. Just pure white. Uh, actually, I might be ahead of myself.

I think this is still the the violet. This is still the pearl gray going on top of the violet gray. And I’m establishing like just a little bit of a a shimmer through the bevel right there. Front and the back. The back has a lot more texture on it.

I like the back from a a rusted perspective a lot more. And again, just maybe he clonked something right there and notched it and he did scrape a good chunk of it off. And I put too much paint, so I’m just using my finger to rub it off. Dropping the model as I do if I I have to drop every model. I’m painting it while I’m painting it.

And now just a couple dots of pure white and we’re we’re finished. Here we go. So, we’re done. See you tomorrow.

Guides for this

Comments

Leave a Comment

Comments are moderated

Loading comments...