Highlighting black
Glazing up from Tenebris Gray to pearl gray for the dark panels — plus a sink ripping off the wall, another bout of sickness, and thoughts on a new Army Painter wet palette.
The steps
Start from Tenebris Grey rather than pure black. Black has nowhere to go.
Glaze up toward pearl grey in thin steps.
Stop earlier than you think. Panels read as black as long as the darkest parts stay dark.
The sink and the sickness
Hey, what’s up? Long time no see. So today this happened: it used to be a sink right here, but it ripped itself off the wall and took the water with it. I’ve been dealing with that. This is a 3D printed room, which probably sounds super echoey now because I had to take everything out of it to clean up. Luckily we caught it pretty quickly. I messed up that wall pretty good, but the room is mostly clean now.
I have been sick as heck, which you can probably see in my little eyes again. This is the year of rot for me. I’ve pretty much been sick since November. I think I had two weeks where I wasn’t sick. I just got my voice back.
Luckily the Kal Arath videos were pre-recorded as a teaser. So if you see any more Kal Arath videos, it was all pre-recorded at once — I’m saving those for when I can’t get out of bed again. It’s been brutal.
I’m exhausted from dealing with this. But let’s fit some hobby in. Let’s see what we can do.
The new wet palette
Rest in peace to the old wet palette. I went to replace the paper and the underside of it and the foam were covered in mold. Absolutely disgusting. I needed to get back to work on Maximus, so I went out to the LGS, and all they had was this Army Painter one.
I didn’t research this at all going in. I knew I wanted one that’s smaller, and this is substantially smaller than the other one, which I like. But what’s weird is it doesn’t lock. None of this is sealed — it just depends on this rubber band. I don’t really understand that.
The other issue is my favorite sable brush doesn’t fit in it. A lot of the other brushes I use — the Amazon special ones — also don’t fit because of the hump. None of my oil brushes fit. Brushes don’t fit and it doesn’t seal.
But the paint is staying wet. It’s letting me blend and do all my wet palette things. I think it needs a little more water actually, looking at it now. It’s been like 3 days, and I don’t think you’re even supposed to keep paints in them for 3 days normally — so it’s working pretty well. It’s a wet palette. We spoke.
Cutting in the dark areas
I laid in a little bit of shading — undertones on the head. Got a lot of work left on the face, but I started slowly putting in some color. The main thing is I cut in all these dark areas.
Looks like we need to do a bit more on that handle already. It makes the red look more done — because when so much of the model is this red color and we’re intentionally keeping it red, it runs the risk of looking unfinished. We’re definitely going to need to do a lot more love to the armor — more edge highlighting, picking out the more raised portions to truly finish the red. The leg looks pretty good, the shoulders look pretty good, but we’re going to add some more white to the armor too.
The glaze mix
Okay — just mixed up a little bit. This is Tenebris and a little bit of gray, more of the gray, a lot of the gray. Time to paint our model and go crazy. We’re going to do this pretty quickly.
This front leg is where most of the eyes are going to go. These are all glaze consistency — you can see on my thumb. I’m going to leave the straight Tenebris in the ridges.
Get a little more paint on the brush. I’m just trying to get a little bit of progress here before my body shuts down. This is very thin — probably a little too much on my brush still. I’ll only do one little highlight pass under there.
I’m hitting the bulk of the raised areas on these parts. Pretty much just layering. We’re not even really glazing — it’s glaze consistency, because that’s just how I like my paint in general. You get better control over it, and I’d rather just come back.
You can see on this thigh piece, we’re already getting the effect we want — right down through the middle of the thigh, it’s already brightening up because the paint just deposits there.
The no-effort wet blend
Now, while that last pass is still wet, I’m going to come into the midtone. Make sure it’s not super watery — I don’t want it to run everywhere. I’m showing you my thumb on purpose so you can see the method to the madness.
Do one pass very close to the recess line and then a little bit in the middle, to build up that highlight. Because that first pass is still wet, it’ll just blend itself together. This is like no-effort wet blending. Then hit it again real fast. Boom. There she goes.
Okay — while you were just sitting around waiting, I did the highlights on everywhere else except the leg so you can see. I did a little stippling on the straps to distress them, since the eye is going to catch those more from the top. Pretty straightforward.
I missed this shoulder — putting a little more in there. The shoulders, I just caught the arms and elbows, and of course the back straps. Just a quick pass on that arm. Got the grips.
The pearl gray highlight
Let me show you — this is just straight pearl gray. At this point I’ve worked it up with a couple of glaze layers. Literally just five more minutes of glazing, same thing I did at the beginning.
Now I’m going to paint this highlight — the brightest highlight — just on the spot closest to the crack. Very little paint on my brush, plenty of control. Just painting very thin lines, holding the model so I’m pulling the brush toward me for the greatest control over where the line goes. I’m painting that crack where those two panel lines meet.
Then I get a little more water because I want this back to glaze consistency, working it back down. There’s a lot of moisture there — definitely don’t want that much. There we go. Almost nothing coming off. Just glazing that highlight over. Boom.
Let it dry for a second so you can get a true look at it.
So now it still ties in because of the blue from our scales. It doesn’t take away from the model. We want it to look good if somebody looks at it, but it’s not super eye-catching. Your attention might go there for a little bit, but then it goes back to the red of the model. The cold blue tones in it are just like the scales, so it complements the red.
All right, that’s it for today. Going to go crash. See you tomorrow.
Full transcript of the video
Hey, what’s up? Long time no see. Uh, so today this happened. >> It used to be a sink right here, but it ripped itself off the wall and took the water. >> I’ve been dealing with that.
Guess this is a 3D printed room. That probably sounds super echoey now cuz I had to take everything out of it. Uh, get it cleaned up, get the floor cleaned up, get the water cleaned up. Luckily, we caught it pretty quickly. I messed that wall up pretty good, but uh, the room is mostly clean now.
I have been sick as as heck, which you can probably see in my little eyes again. I don’t know. This is like the year the year of rot for me. I think I’ve been pretty much been sick since like November, the end of November. It feels like it.
I think I had like 2 weeks where I wasn’t sick. I just got my voice back. Luckily, the Kal Arath videos were pre-recorded teaser. So, if you see any more Kal Arath videos, it was pre-recorded all together, but I’m saving those for when I can’t get out of bed again. Uh, it’s been brutal, been rough.
Uh, I’m now exhausted from dealing with this. But let’s let’s fit some hobby in. Let’s see what we can do. Let’s get some quick some quick hobbying in. Uh, rest in peace to the old wet pallet.
I let it I went to replace my my partial paper in it and it was the underside of it and all through the foam was covered in mold. It was absolutely disgusting. So, I uh I needed to get that work on that Maximus made. So, I went out to the LGS and all they had was Army Painter ones. And so, I I didn’t I don’t didn’t research this at all going into it.
Uh I want I knew I wanted one that’s smaller and this is this is substantially smaller than the other one, which is which that part I like, you know, but what’s weird is like it doesn’t lock. Like I know none of this is sealed. It just depends on this rubber band thing. So, I I don’t I don’t really understand that. And the the other issue is my favorite sable brush doesn’t fit in it.
Uh and then a lot of the other brushes I use, these are like the Amazon special one also doesn’t fit because of the the hump. Uh none of my oil brushes fit. This one’s thick, but even my thinner ones are too big. So, uh brushes don’t fit. And again, this doesn’t seal.
So, so I don’t know. Uh, and this one that that paint uh it’s keeping my paints wet and it’s it’s uh making me able to blend and and do all my wet pallet things, you know. I think it needs a little bit more water actually looking at it now. Uh, but I don’t know. It’s It’s a wet palette.
It’s doing wet pallet things for me. But it it’s just weird how it doesn’t seal. So, I don’t know. Or I mean, I guess it seals. I mean, it’s working, right?
It’s been like 3 days. Uh, and I don’t think you’re even supposed to keep paints in them for the 3 days normally, so it’s it’s working pretty well. Um, uh, I don’t know. It’s a wet palette. We spoke.
Um, I I laid in a little bit of of shading of undertones on the head. We got a lot of work left to do on the face, but I just started slowly putting in some color there. Uh, and the main thing is I cut in all these dark areas. And it looks like we need to do a little bit more on that handle already. Kind of it makes the red look more done because when so much of the model is this red color and when so much of the model like we’re intentionally keeping the model that red, it runs the risk of looking unfinished.
So it’s uh you know it’s not something I would always do. And we’re definitely we’re going to need to come back in and I think we’re going to need to do a lot more love to the armor for sure. probably with some more edge highlighting and picking out some of the more raised portions to truly finish the red up. Um, it looks kind of good. Like the leg looks pretty good, you know, and the shoulders look pretty good, but I think and we’re going to add some more white to the armor, too.
Uh, so there’s definitely more to go on the armor, but it’s all to help it look more finished. Okay, here we go. So, just mixed up a little bit. This is Tenebris and a little bit of the gray. Uh, more of the gray, a lot of the gray, and time to paint our model and go crazy.
We’re gonna do this pretty quickly. So, on this front leg, that’s where most of the people are going to see, like most of the eyes are going to go. The these are all like glaze consistency. So, you can see on my thumb here. So, I’m just I’m going to paint I’m going to leave the straight TBR in the ridges.
And let me Are we in focus? Can I lock the focus? I don’t know. I feel like I’m learning. I’m getting a little bit better here.
Uh get a little bit more paint on the brush. There we go. Uh just trying to get a little bit of progress here before my body shuts down. And again, this is very thin. I think I still got probably a little bit too much on my brush.
Uh going to come in under here. Probably only do one little highlight pass there. And then same thing, just hit I’m hitting the bulk of the raised areas on these parts. Pretty much just layering. We’re not even really glazing.
It’s glaze consistency cuz that’s just how I like where I like my paint to be when I’m just painting in general. I just like you get better control over it. And I’d rather just come back. And you can kind of see it on this thigh piece like we’re already getting the effect we want of like right down through the middle of that thigh. It’s already brightening up because the paint just deposits there.
And boom. There’s that. Just one more right here. All right. And now, while that one’s still, that last pass is still wet, I’m going to come into the midtone right here.
Make sure it’s not super watery cuz I don’t want it to run everywhere. And I’m showing you my thumb on purpose so you can just see the method to the madness. And we want to hit close to the like do one pass very close to the recess line and then a little bit in the middle still. to just build up the little bit of that highlight. And because that first pass is still wet, it’ll just kind of blend itself together.
This is like no effort wet blending. And then again, just hit it again. One more time real fast. Real fast. Like boom.
There she goes. And all right. And I’m going to do that on the rest of the parts of the model real quick. I won’t make you watch the whole thing for the rest of the model. and then I’ll come back when it’s time to do the final highlight high highlights.
Okay, while you were just sitting around waiting, I did the highlights on everywhere else except the leg so you can kind of see. I did a little bit of like stippling style uh just to distress these straps a little bit more since the eye you’re going to see catch those more from the top. And it’s pretty pretty straightforward. And I miss this shoulder here. Just putting a little bit more in there.
So, shoulders, I just caught the arms and the elbows and of course the back straps and need to do just a quick little pass right here on that arm. Got the grips and and you can see like really just how big of a difference. So, let me show you. Now, this is this is just straight pearl gray. Now, at this point, I’ve just worked it up.
Um, just a couple of a couple of glaze layers. Like literally like just five more minutes of glazing probably. Uh, the same thing I did at the beginning. And now I’m going to paint this highlight here, this brightest highlight, just on the spot that’s closest to the crack in the lake. And I’m making sure uh there’s very little paint on my brush.
I have plenty of control. And I’m just going to paint very thin lines, holding the model so I’m just pulling the brush towards me so I have the greatest amount of control of my line and where it’s going. And again, I’m just painting that crack where those two panel lines meet. And then get a little bit more water cuz I want this to be more glaze consistency again. Working it back down.
And that’s there’s a lot of moisture there. Definitely don’t want that much moisture. All right, there we go. You can see there’s almost nothing coming off. And I’m just glazing right here and glazing that highlight over.
And boom. There we go. So now it’s We’ll let it dry for a second so you can get a true true look at it. Okay, there we go. So now it still ties in because of the the blue from our scales.
It still ties in. Uh it doesn’t it doesn’t take away from the model. Like we want it to look good if somebody looks at it, but it’s not super eye-catching, you know, like it might draw your attention for a little bit, but then the rest of it goes back to the the red of the model. So the the cold blues in it, blue tones in it are they’re just like the scales. So it it looks good.
It complements the red. All right, that’s it for today. Gonna go crash. See you tomorrow.
More painting guides
Spicing up some relic blade tokens.
Finishing the Relic Blade cardboard tokens with a black paint marker around the edges and a dome of Mod Podge Dimensional Magic on each face.
Another easy way to paint faces
Yesterday's face was underpaint and glaze. Today's face is Sunny Skin Tone, one Army Painter Dark Tone wash, and a couple of dots for eyes — about ten minutes start to finish.
Making Zines Is Easy with the Right Tools
Scoring, folding, saddle stitching, and Coptic binding—everything you need to know to start making your own zines and hand-bound books at home.
How to Paint Leather with Just Two Colors
A quick two-color leather painting method using Satchel Brown and Serpent Bite Leather—stipple highlights for worn, realistic results in minutes.
Comments
No comments yet. Be the first to share your thoughts!
Failed to load comments. Please try refreshing the page.