Simple Lego Minifig Bases for D&D
A quick experiment making bases for Lego minifigures to use in D&D games on standard battle mats.
38 posts
A quick experiment making bases for Lego minifigures to use in D&D games on standard battle mats.
Finishing up the skin, fur, book, and glasses on this Dolmenwood Breggle miniature using speed paints and chunky tabletop-style highlights.
Speed painting a purple robe on a Dolmenwood Breggle using Moody Mauve, chunky stippled highlights, and learning to push contrast without overthinking it.
New Year's Day painting session finishing Crucible Guard warjacks with true metallic metal techniques, treating metallics like NMM for impressive results.
The cheat code for achieving that perfect Crucible Guard green using just three speed paints and an airbrush, working from highlights to shadows.
Day 98 pushing through sickness—sealing a terrain board with Mod Podge and glue to make it nearly indestructible like the old Warhammer Fantasy days.
A complete walkthrough of creating a Dolmenwood character—rolling stats, choosing a class, determining background, moon sign, and equipping your adventurer.
My esoteric process for creating deeply personal RPG characters using planetary influences, bone casting, and tarot readings—embracing the synchronicity.
Speed painting Butcher Klaus for a painting competition using Army Painter speed paints—getting a tabletop-ready model in one day.
How to create incredible snow effects using crushed glass, realistic water, and fishing line icicles—nothing compares to this technique.
Using Marco Frisone's weathered wood recipe with contrast paints and dry brushing to create a grungy, well-used Love Shack objective marker.
Creating marbled paper covers for my wife's poetry book using traditional techniques with carrageenan, ink, and Kodak Photoflow.
The secret to getting really clean 3D prints—patience, proper washing with ethanol, and letting everything fully dry before curing.
Painting NMM belt buckles using Scale Artist grays—the continuation of learning volumetric painting techniques.
Continuing the leather belt with NMM buckles—using the full Kimera grayscale palette and thinking like a volumetric painter.
Day one of taking painting seriously—following Richard Gray's leather belt tutorial and discovering that competition-level painting isn't as impossible as it seems.
How to make goblin faces really pop in about 8 minutes—teeth, gums, lips, and noses using just a busted up brush and basic techniques.
Quick tutorial on my goblin skin recipe—Shamrock Green speed paint over yellow and black, finished with Scale Color highlights.
Three methods for painting rust on 90 goblin spears—Dirty Down Rust, AK Interactive Rust Streaks, and the classic sponge technique. Plus why Dirty Down smells like pennies and cat piss.
No-nonsense guide to grim dark pale orc skin using Pallid Wych Flesh, Bugman's Glow, and streaking grime—plus the spit effect secret.
No-nonsense guide to grim dark pale orc skin—Pallid Wych Flesh, Bugman's Glow, streaking grime. Plus the spit effect secret: UHU glue.
Late night glazing session finishing Mangler Squig skin—the consistency secrets, why you paint from shadow to highlight, and knowing what to focus on for army painting.
Recreating Mangler Squig box art two ways—airbrush and drybrush. Same results, different tools. Plus why volumetric painting looks goofy on armies.
One month of daily videos! Celebrating by finally casting the Chaos Toad I've had for years—silicone molds, first cast, and discovering my new hobby obsession.
One month in and finally casting the toad I bought years ago. Candle wax to stick the model, eyeballing silicone, and learning that feet need vent holes.
250 bases done with half a jar of homemade basing material—here's the palette knife technique that makes it fast.
250 bases in two hours with homemade basing material. Palette knife technique, finger cleaning, and the coffee grounds recipe.
DIY basing material recipe that costs almost nothing—spackle, baking soda, coffee grounds, and paint. Almost identical to expensive brand name stuff.
Day one of tournament prep starts with stripping. 100% acetone, metal cup, hard bristled brush—getting eBay rescues ready for a new scheme.
Dirty Down Rust reactivation, silver dry brush highlights, and getting disgustingly gory with UHU glue and Blood for the Blood God. Finger painting included.
Tamiya weathering masters, nilakh oxide disasters, fixing mistakes live, and why Brownish Decay is my new favorite paint (even though it stripped my silver).
Finishing Trench Crusade with the Anchorite Shrine—purple preshade for silver, aged wood recipe, and streaking grime magic on the Catherine wheel.
Fully painted Trench Crusade warband in 2 hours—speed paint silver, Blood Angels red contrast, Molotow liquid chrome, and the streaking grime magic.
Two methods for 15-minute Trench Crusade prisoners—oil paints vs streaking grime. Using an envelope as a palette because that's what was on my desk.
Grim dark painting made easy—oil washes, modified Zorn palette, and blue-tinted skin that looks undead. Whole model in 20 minutes.
Day seven of the board project—the heat gun makes moss bubble up like magic, but watch out for that third-degree burn setting. Disaster and recovery.
Day five of terrain building—fixing visible foam cells with AK Natural Texture and getting everything looking like real stone.
Don't be intimidated by non-metallic metal—it's just poking your mini with watered-down paint. Here's my honest, messy, real-life approach to two-color NMM gold.